Spraying #104-2021 (free access) Seven watches that absolutely want to end in style 2021

Breitling Super Avi P-51 Mustang

Super Avi, the new collection of timepieces imagined by Breitling, celebrates the history of aviation, drawing inspiration from the original aviator watch, the "co-pilot" Ref. 765 AVI of 1953, but also of four legendary planes: the P-51 Mustang of North American Aviation, the Vought F4u Corsair, the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk and the Mosquito of Havilland. "This collection symbolizes this feeling of nostalgia which refers to the beginnings of aviation, when the watch was the essential tool of the pilot aboard the aircraft," said Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling. "However, this exceptional artisanal know-how and the robustness of design are not reserved for pilots and fans of vintage aircraft. In the 1930s, the Breitling eight aviation department became known by inventing precision clocks intended for use in cockpits for the emerging aeronautics industry. Twenty years later, in 1953, Breitling presents the world a new instrument dedicated to aeronautics, but this time in a version to wear on the wrist. First of all, the pilot's watch Ref. 765 AVI then had immediate success and has established itself as a real source of inspiration for many other creations. Much appreciated by the airmen, this model was quickly renamed "co-pilot". In 2020, Breitling also launched the AVI Ref model. 765 1953 Re-Edition, a precise and meticulous reissue imagined to pay tribute to this icon of classic chronographs. This avant-garde chronograph served as inspiration for Super Avi, the first series in the Classic Avi collection in Breitling. Almost a hundred years after its first timepieces dedicated to the aviation sector, this launch celebrates the strong link between the brand and the golden age of this industry. From the first take -offs at the birth of air commercial transport, the history of Breitling is intimately linked to that of aviation.

"Our watchmaker DNA has exerted a predominant influence on this collection, while the interpretations of these four planes bring it an emotional dimension and a daring graphic attraction. By merging, these elements plunge us into the spirit of the first flights, "said Sylvain Berneron, artistic director of Breitling. "Let us not forget that Breitling took on the role of pioneer in terms of tool watches for this industry, with models such as the REF. 765 AVI. It was therefore imperative to ensure the conservation of this remarkable heritage, while adapting it to the 21st century. The characteristic design of the Super AVI is distinguished by its large highly readable Arabic figures on the telescope and the dial. Its robust case measures 46 mm and the oversized crown is placed at 3 o'clock. The kneaded glasses provide an optimal grip and the stubborn veal leather bracelets recall the seams present on the leather flight equipment of the time. The pilots and other travelers will appreciate the possibility of reading a second time zone thanks to the GMT needle with a red point, as well as the 24 -hour graduation appearing on the enhancement. The Super AVI is fueled by a Caliber Breitling B04 COSC COSC COLIBATORE movement, which guarantees a power reserve of around 70 hours. If the Super AVI sends us back to the time of the exclusively analogy timepieces, where the pilots used them as a trusted instrument during their flights, the robustness of the design and its foolproof precision guarantee the relevance of this series in the era current. The collection is available in five unique versions paying tribute to four powerful and memorable planes, whose silhouettes appear in filigree on the bottom of the sapphire of chronographs. The Super Avi P-51 Mustang pays homage to the best fighter planes of the time through two distinct versions: one with a stainless steel case with a black dial and a golden brown leather bracelet, and the other In 18 carat red gold, with an anthracite dial and a black leather bracelet.

Frederic Constant Vintage Rally Healey Automatic Chronograph

Impliquée dans l’univers des sports automobiles, la manufacture horlogère suisse Frédérique Constant est partenaire de longue date avec la marque de voitures Austin Healey. Aujourd’hui, la maison dévoile une édition « spéciale France & Belux » du nommé Vintage Rally Healey Chronographe automatique. Déclinée en deux versions se singularisant par un jeu de couleurs au positionnement différent sur le cadran, chacune est éditée à 75 exemplaires. Un bel hommage rendu au design emblématique des célèbres voitures de sport britanniques des années 1960. Arborant une ligne élégante, cette Vintage Rally Healey Chronographe automatique « spéciale France & Belux » est parée d’un boîtier de 42 mm de diamètre. En acier inoxydable poli, elle dévoile un cadran cerclé d’une piste, soulignant la minuterie sur le rehaut du pourtour. Se détachant du fond blanc mat, les compteurs « 30 minutes » à 3 heures et « petite seconde » à 9 heures rappellent, par leur positionnement, ceux disposés de chaque côté du volant des voitures de course mythiques. Conférant un caractère sportif à l’ensemble, de larges chiffres argentés, placés à 6 et 12 h, viennent rythmer de généreux index. Luminescents, comme les aiguilles des heures et des minutes, ils offrent une parfaite visibilité, y compris dans des lieux obscurs. Siglé du logo Healey à 6h, le cadran présente une différence de couleurs selon les versions. Mettant en lumière l’échelle des minutes sur fond noir ou la graduation des secondes sur fond bleu, il est animé, dans les deux cas, par le rouge de l’aiguille centrale des secondes. Harmonisé au ton bleu ou noir des compteurs, le bracelet en cuir de veau accentue l’élégance du charme vintage de ces sportives horlogères célébrant une mécanique de qualité et de style.

Hamilton capsule x Janie Bryant

Rewarded for her work on the characters in the series, Deadwood or even Women Kill, Janie Bryant became an expert in the art of using the power of costumes to dive viewers in another era. With an extraordinary concern for detail and a passion for documentation, it gives them authenticity that allows the past to take a contemporary form. "In the cinema, we use fashion to define a narrative framework and the character of a character before the dialogue begins," explains Janie. This capsule collection embodies this dynamic means of expression, with watches that reinvent the relationship between past, present and future. Inseparable from the cinema since their first appearance in 1932 in the Grand Classique Shanghai Express, the Hamilton watches participated in more than 500 films and television series. This common commitment to authenticity and innovation inspired our collaboration with Janie, who transformed three of our emblematic American Classic watches into incredible demonstrations of her art. Reinvented to celebrate their origins in a contemporary spirit, these watches each come in in two new dressings: one for today and one for tomorrow. "For us, the watches do much more than giving the time: they tell a story that is combined with the past, the present and the future," sums up the CEO of Hamilton, Vivian Stauffer. This partnership with Janie was the unique opportunity to renew our emblematic selection to project it to the future without forgetting its past. By observing our heritage through an unprecedented prism, we were able to create a real time capsule for the wrist. »»

Janie a traduit la version actuelle des montres de la collection capsule à l’aide de couleurs discrètes, de textures douces et de tonalités chaleureuses. Des diamants, un revêtement PVD couleur or jaune et un cuir rose poudré confèrent à ces modèles contemporains une touche de glamour hollywoodien. Mais des éléments plus subtils, comme des formes arrondies et des nuances pastel, les rendent plus réelles et accessibles. Avec leur style raffiné à porter au quotidien, chacune a une histoire à raconter. Janie a d’abord offert à notre Intra-Matic Automatique Chronographe un look enveloppant en associant ses fonctions pratiques de chronographe à de délicates aiguilles avec revêtement PVD couleur or beige et un bracelet en cuir rose soft-touch. Cette montre inspirée de l’année 1968 est prête tant pour des tours de piste ou une virée en ville : c’est la pièce maîtresse de votre nouveau style signature. Lancée en 1937, la silhouette Art déco polyvalente de l’Ardmore Quartz a été sublimée pour l’époque moderne avec des couleurs neutres et des textures séduisantes. Un cadran opalin blanc argenté constitue la toile de fond idéale de ses indications lumineuses couleur or jaune et de son boîtier assorti. Associée à un bracelet en cuir blanc cassé imitation alligator, l’Ardmore Quartz vous suivra partout au quotidien. Vous ne disparaîtrez jamais dans l’obscurité grâce aux diamants qui illuminent le cadran soleillé noir de la Lady Hamilton Vintage Quartz. Ici, Janie marie avec équilibre le charme rétro inhérent à la montre, dont le design original des années 1950 s’inspire de nos montres pendentifs du début du XX^e siècle, à une touche de fantaisie. Un boîtier couleur prune intense confère à cette montre une personnalité attachante et unique. Si, pour Janie Bryant, le monde d’aujourd’hui se caractérise par son élégance feutrée, celui de demain brille d’un éclat éblouissant. Bracelets en cuir métallisé, textures lisses et tonalités froides font voyager nos modèles historiques dans le futur. Lignes droites et couleurs neutres équilibrent cette impression de luxe pour donner à chaque pièce une fonctionnalité moderne qui leur permet de nous suivre dans tous nos rêves. Mêlant des éléments de toutes les époques, ces superbes montres sont prêtes à découvrir leur destin. Avec son bracelet en cuir doré scintillant assorti à ses compteurs lumineux couleur or, l’Intra-Matic Automatique Chronographe se transforme en un phare qui nous guide dans la nuit. Contrastant avec le cadran noir, les couleurs métallisées célèbrent nos réussites et notre engagement constant au service de l’innovation. Janie offre à la sophistiquée Ardmore Quartz un relooking éblouissant avec un bracelet en cuir argenté métallisé. Un boîtier et un cadran argentés polis classiques contrebalancent ce tourbillon de lumière pour un look flatteur à la fois chic et ludique. Juxtaposition de lumière et d’ombre, la délicate Lady Hamilton Vintage Quartz offre une profondeur saisissante. Illuminez l’obscurité avec son cadran soleillé argenté rehaussé d’orbes couleur or jaune. Un bracelet chaîne avec revêtement PVD noir met en valeur les ombres qui s’y déploient dans un mélange attentif, là aussi, de pragmatisme et d’élégance pour le jour et la nuit.

F.P. Daily resonance chronometer

But what is the resonance phenomenon? Two frequencies that harmonize to be in resonance. Any animated body transmits a vibration to its environment. When another body captures this vibration, it absorbs its energy and begins to vibrate at the same frequency. The first is called "exciting" and the second "resonator". This physical phenomenon known as "resonance" is an integral part of our daily life and yet we have little attention to it. When we are looking for a program on a radio receiver, this one fried as long as the chosen rides have not encountered the issuer's waves: only then, they harmonize to resonate! The resonance concerns all areas, whether mechanical, musical, human or other, as evidenced by the musician Keith Jarrett in our first catalog: "In music, it is obvious because lutes and sitars, For example, have ropes whose sole reason for being is to vibrate by resonance; The musician never touches them, despite their proximity to the pinched strings. ” Two centuries later, François-Paul Journe resulted in the challenge with a first creation in a pocket watch, which does not yet work according to his expectations. It will still take fifteen years of work for the maturity and experience of the watchmaker, allow it to present the first resonance wristwatch as a world premiere. He has thought, developed and built this movement to meet the requirements of the wrist and thus offer an extreme chronometry. Each of the two balances is alternately excitator and resonator. When the two balances are in motion, they enter into sympathy by the resonance effect and start to beat naturally in opposition. The two balances then suffer from each other, giving more inertia to their movement. However, this agreement is only possible if the frequency difference from one to the other does not exceed five seconds per day of cumulative difference in six positions. Their adjustment is extremely delicate. While an external disturbing movement affects the functioning of a traditional mechanical watch, this same disturbance produced, in the case of the resonance watch, an effect which accelerates one of the balances as much as it slows the other. Little by little, the two balances return to each other to regain their point of agreement, thus eliminating the disturbance. This innovative stopwatch offers unrivaled precision in the field of mechanical watch.

Antide January is one of the best known French watchmakers who made watchmaking masterpieces, in particular celestial spheres, planetaries and clocks with astronomical indications. In 2002, François-Paul Journe acquired a very rare resonance regulator signed Antide January. "The acquisition of this regulator was a great emotion for me because it was carried out around 1780 by one of the most brilliant French watchmakers in history: Antide January. It symbolizes the link between the creation of my "resonance chronometer" and the most interesting research in the 18th century. It is one of the most beautiful regulators in the world, which was the first known application of the watchmaking resonance. Two other copies, but each different so unique, are today at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva and at the Paul-Dupuy Museum in Toulouse. " Presented in 2000, the resonance stopwatch represents one of the wildest challenges in the field of mechanical watch! He distinctly signs the research of the master watchmaker François-Paul Journe on precision. Using the natural phenomenon of resonance, this mechanism revolutionized established standards and offered an accuracy never equaled in the mechanical bracelet watch. François-Paul Journe produced several versions of his resonance stopwatch in the past 2 decades. The first 20 models, known as parts subscription parts, products on order were intended for customers who bought the first timepiece F.P. Journne, the "Tourbillon subscription".

2020 celebrates the 20th anniversary of the resonance stopwatch. F.P. Journne presents a brand new mechanical construction with a single motor spring for the two movements and two "Equal fellowships" with a frequency of a second which transmit a linear force to each of the two pendants. A redrawn box with a crown now placed at 2 hours facilitates the reassembly of the watch. The resonance chronometer imbued with immense watch poetry, still remains, the most precise mechanical watch of contemporary watchmaking. In the footsteps of the observations of the scientist Christiaan Huygens in the 17th and on those of the 2 clocks in the 18th, Antide January and Abraham-Louis Breguet who produced double pendulum regulators operating with the phenomenon of the resonance, François-Paul Journe has since the only one Clock to make sewer watches operating by acoustic resonance. He presented his first resonance wristwatch in 2000, which he baptized resonance, and deposited the resonance brand, previously known phenomenon under the name double pendulum or double pendulum. The F.P. Journne resonance stopwatch is the only watch-bracelet in the world using the natural physical phenomenon of resonance without mechanical transmission. Thought, developed and constructed to meet the requirements of carrying the wrist and providing an extreme chronometry, this watch represents one of the wildest challenges in the field of mechanical watch! Each of the two balances is alternately excitator and resonator. When the two pendants are in motion, they enter sympathy and start to beat naturally in op- position. The two drums then suffocate each other, giving more inertia to their movement. However, this agreement is only possible if the frequency difference from one to the other does not exceed five seconds per day of cumulative difference in six positions. Their adjustment is extremely finesse. While an external disturbing movement affects the functioning of a traditional mechanical watch, this same per- turbation produces, for the resonance chronometer, an effect which accelerates one of the balances as much as it slows the other. Little by little, the two pendants return to each other to regain their point of agreement, thus eliminating the disturbance and beating in perfect synchronization. This emblematic watch which distinctively signs the watchmaking searches of François-Paul Journe on precision was awarded Watch for great complication at the Grand Prix de Horlogerie de Genève in 2010. François-Paul Journe produced several versions of his wrist watch during of the last 20 years; The first 20 subscriptions (2000), the first collection series (2001), the Ruthenium series (2001-2002), with 18 CT rose gold movement. (2005), the 24-hour digital resonance (2010), the 24-hour analogy resonance (2019), the new resonance chronometer (2020).

The new resonance stopwatch has only one motor spring for the two movements. A differential placed on the first wheel, visible in the center of the dial, transmits the strength of the motor spring independently to two secondary cogs. Each secondary cog is equipped with an equality of equality of a frequency of 1 second. Operating, the force received from the exhausts remains linear and ensures isochronism for 28 hours. The resonance stopwatch presents a redrawn box with a crown now placed at 2 hours facilitating the reassembly of the watch in positon 0. The time is put in position 2 of the crown, in the hourly direction for the left dial And in the anti-clockwise sense for the right dial. The crown at 4 am allows the reset to zero simultaneous seconds. On the movement side, 2 "equality backgrounds" transmit a linear force to each of the two pendants in order to remain isochronous for 28 hours. This model is available with a platinum or 6N 18 CT gold box. In 40 or 42 mm in diameter. The dial is offered in gray gold or 6n 18 ct gold. With the Silver Hours Dial Guilloche Nails of Paris. Leather, gold or platinum bracelet.

Wahoo Stryd

As it approaches its first anniversary, the Wahoo Rival revolutionary GPS watch is now linked to Stryd, giving runners access to real -time power data the software update also improves the visibility of the data in the application . A year ago, Wahoo, a leader in endurance technology, presented the GPS Elemnt Rival sports watch. Since then, Wahoo has continued to add features, making the rival the choice of the best runners, ultramarathon and triathletes in the world, notably Jan Frodeno, Ben and Sarah True, Jim Walmsley and Heather Jackson. Today, Wahoo has published a software update that adds two new features, the first in a series of updates that will continue in 2022 as the company adds more features to the Rival. The first updates of today is a modification of the Elemnt mobile application, which now includes a statistical tab that consolidates physical condition data in an easily accessible module, giving athletes a rapid view of their measures to performance. In addition, the Rival is now part of the Pod of Race Stryd, giving runners access to performance data in real time and allowing more efficient and targeted training. Colored fields of power zone will also be added to the rival later this winter, which will allow athletes to use power data more easily during the race.

"The rival was a revolutionary sports watch when we launched it in November 2020," said Mike Saturnia, CEO of Wahoo. "Since then, we have continued to add new features, which makes it an even more powerful training tool for all our athletes, that they are just starting to run and swim or they push their physical form limits and training with monumental challenges like an Ironman or a Marathon. »Stryd aims to help each type of runner improve their physical condition using motion capture technology that measures running performance. By transmitting real -time data to the rival, runners can see their Stryd data during training, which allows them to train regularly in appropriate power areas to achieve specific objectives. At the same time, Wahoo will update the Elemnt application, by introducing a statistical tab, where athletes can consult their training data, as well as other health data recorded outside the training sessions. With other expected software updates, rival users will be able to see the average heart rate at rest, the variability of heart rate and other health monitoring data in the Statistics tab. Wahoo is impatient to continue adding more features to the rival when it enters its second year. The goal is to make it the richest sports watch in functionalities available at its price. Other planned updates include control of Android music, Drill / Kick mode for swimming in swimming pools, navigation in the Ariane wire, monitoring of sleep and updated user interfaces.

MB&F x L’ÉPÉE 1839 Orb

À première vue, Orb ressemble à un œil futuriste, composé d’un globe luisant parfaitement formé et d’un cadran à la place de l’iris et de la pupille. Cependant, dans les horloges signées MB&F et L’Epée 1839, rien n’est complètement conforme à l’apparence. La structure minimaliste est composée de quatre élytres (pour ceux qui s’interrogent, c’est le terme technique pour désigner les ailes protectrices des coléoptères) qui non seulement se déploient mais également pivotent, faisant de Orb un Transformer qui adopte une grande variété de positions. Le modèle blanc brillant rappelle les premiers iPods et leur coque incurvée lustrée, une surface particulièrement agréable à l’œil et au toucher. Les facettes de Orb sont multiples. Placée sur sa soucoupe, pour ne pas rouler, l’horloge peut être complètement fermée ou avec seulement une, deux ou trois ailes ouvertes. Elle peut aussi être complètement ouverte sur ses quatre élytres sans nécessiter l’aide de sa soucoupe. Pour réaliser Orb, on part d’un bloc d’aluminium et on l’évide pour créer le globe parfait. Une fois découpés, les élytres sont recouverts de plusieurs couches de laque durcies au four qui apportent de la brillance. Les quatre élytres sont fixés à la structure par des charnières dynamométriques à friction, de sorte que leur inclinaison reste fixe quel que soit le niveau d’ouverture. Quand l’horloge est fermée, les élytres sont maintenus en place par quatre minuscules aimants logés à l’extrémité intérieure de chacun, afin de préserver à la perfection la forme sphérique.

L’horloge ultramoderne est animée par un superbe mouvement L’Epée 1839, doté d’une sonnerie des heures et de 8 jours de réserve de marche. Contrairement à plusieurs horloges créées par MB&F et L’Epée, le mouvement est invisible au premier abord. Néanmoins, le globe parfaitement formé invite le spectateur à dévoiler le cœur mécanique et à découvrir le mouvement. Le calibre 8 jours apparaît légèrement à travers le cadran en aluminium incurvé. Recouvert d’un verre minéral bombé, il est percé en son centre pour permettre la mise à l’heure à l’aide d’une clé spécifique. Il y a deux barillets, un pour l’affichage, un pour la sonnerie, qui se remontent séparément. Le mécanisme de sonnerie ne se limite pas à un coup au passage de chaque heure pleine, il frappe le nombre d’heures écoulées, comme une horloge d’église. Cette fonction peut être répétée à la demande, via un bouton placé sur le côté de l’horloge, et activée ou désactivée selon ses désirs. Le nouveau développement de la sonnerie est basé sur un mécanisme comparable à celui des horloges de voyage historiques de L’Epée 1839. En France, elles sont connues sous le nom de pendulettes d’officier car, selon la légende, après avoir failli perdre une bataille à cause du retard de l’un de ses officiers, Napoléon ordonna à ses chefs militaires de toujours emporter une horloge. Proposée en blanc ou en noir, Orb n’est pas destinée à accompagner son propriétaire à l’extérieur mais, grâce à son mécanisme de sonnerie des heures, elle rappellera merveilleusement le temps qui passe à tous les guerriers de bureau !

Omega Globemaster Annual calendar

While the winter season is looming, Omega expands his elegant Globemaster family of three new models. Instruments of time found to nest under layers of woolly and hot clothing or to prolong a custom suit. Because the annual calendar timepieces claim the classic style instilled by the Globemaster line, inaugurated in 2015 with the prestigious status of the first collection Certified Master Chronometer. Each new 41 millimeter model exhibits the characteristic details of the collection acclaimed by aficionados as a fluted telescope as well as a Pie Pan dial which recall the very first Omega Constellation watches presented in 1952. Each of the twelve facets displays a month of the Year, registered with great delicacy, while on the bottom of the housing, in scratch -resistant sapphire glass, we can admire the medallion representing the central observatory - a tribute to the history of the house which cumulates records of records of precision and prowess at the beginning of the 20th century. There is no doubt that the third model gives pride of place to the Gold Sedna 18K which dresses the captivating instrument of foot in CAP, starting with the case and the polished telescope. Omega has also chosen to make use of its exclusive alloy on the dial which also bears the inscription "Au750" in reference to Gold Sednaô 18K. In the same vein, the Omega logo, the Star Constellation and the indexes were also designed in the noble alloy. At the same time, Omega has made its choice on the black Onyx to crimp the indexes and, for the first time, also to dress the needles for hours and minutes. Worn on a brilliant black leather bracelet, the model is covered thanks to the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 8923 caliber. All the new Omega Globemaster annual calendar watches are delivered with a 5-year warranty and Master Chronometer certification.