Stopover on the Vicentine coast, Portugal seen from the sea

Deep blue land that disappears on the horizon, gray-brown cliffs shaded with green, sand and red earth, scents of spray, sun and wild grass... Less than two hours from Lisbon, the vicentine coast, or “rota vicentina”, looks like a great promise. And she holds it, reconciling over 119 km of coastline the raw serenity of the Alentejo and the wild ardor of a certain Algarve, far from the concrete drifts...

The Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park extends over more than 75 thousand hectares, running between the cliffs perched above the ocean and the land. This coast, one of the best preserved in Portugal and even in Europe, offers a field of exploration open to the ocean and respectful of the natural and human environment. From hiking along the trails to discovering back roads inland, and turning your back on the ocean, opening your arms to local life, heading south of Europe.

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From short walks to long hikes, an ode to pedestrian paradise

Between Santiago de Cacém in Alentejo and Lagos, in the Algarve, the Vicentine coast has 740 kilometers of hiking trails marked by the “Rota Vicentina”. This association, now supported by public actors in the region, was originally the initiative of local residents who were anxious not to see their wild coastline denatured by too little precautionary tourist development. From 2013, the project of this association is twofold: to create in the region a network of partners who are part of the wake of tourism that respects the environment, culture, the local community and to offer activities and services. which highlight the richness of the territory. The inauguration in 2013 of the two main hiking routes, the “Sentier des Pêcheurs” and the “Chemin Historique”, initiated this movement. Both, accessible to the greatest number, are signposted in both directions.

The 'Fisherman's Path' follows from Sines to Lagos the coastal path used by local residents to access fishing grounds and beaches. You walk there between the dunes and the cliffs, on sandy ground most of the time. Bring good shoes! If the whole of the road runs in front of the ocean, revealing a panorama which changes as the shale cliffs of the south-west of the Alentejo give way to those, limestone, of the Algarve, the path makes also a few incursions inland to better find themselves afterwards, around a bend, head-to-head with the Atlantic. Among the routes of this trail, we recommend the hike that links Zambujeira do Mar to Odeceixe. Along the way, the day's itinerary passes by Praia Amalia, so named because the great figure of fado, Amalia Rodrigues, used to live there (as well as a house, which can be seen from the beach), and from dunes to secret beaches and a natural fishing port, it opens as a final note on one of the most spectacular panoramas on the coast, in Ponta em Branco. To get inspired by these views during a shorter walk (1 hour), we recommend the loop between Zambujeira do Mar and Praia dos Alteirinhos. Another route of the Fishermen's Trail, the one that connects Vila Nova de Milfontes (out of season, prefer a departure from Furnas beach, when the boat connection from one bank to the other of the Rio Mira is not possible) to Almograve is also a must.

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The long path of the "rota vicentina" on the land side is called "Historical Path". In 2016, it was awarded the prestigious "Leading Quality Trails - Best of Europe" by the ERA (European Ramblers Association) which distinguishes the best hiking destinations in Europe. With good reason: it reveals, beyond the coastal paths, the poetry of the land. Turning its back on the Atlantic for a few hours, this GR explores the fields, towns and villages, revealing another side of the Alentejan culture and relief. Our preference goes to the route that connects the pretty village of Sao Luis to Odemira, because it offers a striking contrast with the coast, yet so close. Instead of the rough design of the cliffs, it substitutes the gentle curves of the valleys, the sand dunes, the living forest, the ocean, the Torgal river, along which the second part of the route takes a walk... to Pego das Pias, one of the most beautiful landscapes of the Alentejo.

Dense vegetation, dull green, huge rocks whose reflection colors the clear water. Considered a “river beach”, Pego das Pias actually calls for swimming. The bravest will dare, gleaning a little freshness on the way, before continuing towards Odemira. In addition to these major axes, there are shorter itineraries (½ day or less), circular routes that allow you to discover the region without complications. One of them, our favourite, combines the land and the coast starting from the small village of Bordeira. It crosses landscapes of dunes, valleys, pine forests of umbrella pines and sees its highest point opening onto the bay of Arrifana to the north, the beaches of Bordeira and Carrapateira to the south. Since 2019, the Vicentine coast can also be discovered by mountain bike, with a cycle route of more than 1000 km.

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On the sand or in the waves, the coast over the beaches

The question “What is your favorite beach?” is crucial in Portugal. Totaling 31 beaches, the Vicentine coast, in the heart of the eponymous natural park, offers some of the most beautiful in the country. In the South-West of Alentejo, there are first of all immense shale cliffs plunging steeply into the Atlantic, vast stretches of beaches and offshore, waves that give surfers the opportunity to face beautiful waves. Departing from Porto Covo, the first village on the Vicentine coast, here is Vila Nova de Milfontes and Praia do Malhão. It actually has several small beaches: Praia da Cruz, do Saltinho, dos Nascedios and das Galés. So there is a bit of “Malhão” for everyone… including savvy surfers.

Beginners can learn about it with the very famous school of SurfMilfontes. From Malhão, you can reach one of the most beautiful sunsets on the coast after a beautiful 4-hour hike. The arrival is just above where the fishermen unload their daily cargo and in front of the Porta das Barcas restaurant, one of the best on the coast. Further on, why not make a stopover on the small Praia da Ilha beach, just opposite the island of Pessegueiro, a green island adorned with a fort in ruins whose troubled history lends itself to all interpretations. And, although it is no longer either wild or completely deserted, and today it is easy to find the way to get there, the Praia do Bejo Largo, a kilometer long strip of sand, is protected crowds.

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A few kilometers from Aljezur, the Praia de Monte Clérigo combines a vast expanse of sand and a rocky landscape that reveals its richness at low tide: anemones, crabs and starfish... The north and west winds refresh the air, but the dunes work in favor of visitors: in the hollow, you are sheltered from the wind.

But the best-known meeting point for seasoned surfers is Arrifana beach: they come from all over to challenge the waves. Those who are curious about surfing and bodyboarding also have their place there, as well as those who just want to indulge in a siesta, reading or contemplating the landscape, because the crescent beach is bordered by impressive cliffs. Arrifana is also a taste of the "surf culture", without distorting the typical architecture of the Algarve. Continuing the road towards the south, near Vila do Bispo, the beaches of Castelejo and Cordoama, nearby, also lend themselves to bodyboarding or surfing, but, due to the power of the waves, only for the experienced. A small path from Cordoama (accessible by car) provides access to a viewpoint from above, ideal for contemplating the panorama of the cliffs and rocks scattered over the immense beach. Just before arriving in Sagres, stop at Fort de Beliche, a superb view of the ocean, the ruins, endemic plants and wild flowers in the foreground. The beach of the same name is only a few minutes away by car: towards Sagres, Beliche beach, easily accessible from the road, reminds us that we are in the Algarve. Small compared to the beaches of the Alentejo, the coast there draws an arc of a circle which protects courageous swimmers from the wind. Hard to imagine that we are here so close to the city.

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From the Alentejo to the Algarve, taste the local life

If the "costa vicentina" lends itself to exploration at a good pace during hikes, it would be a shame to survey it without taking the time for a stopover. A whole section of Portuguese culture can be discovered in quiet villages such as Aljezur, where one would be wise to have lunch at Pont'a Pé, a traditional table (at the entrance to the village), Vila do Bispo and Odeceixe, where the traditional windmill, perched at the top of the village of white houses, is still in operation. In partnership with local actors, many activities offered in the region are listed on the rota vicentina website, allowing for example to discover the work of wool, taste the wines of the coast in a quinta, observe birds, paddle on the Mira river, discover the craft traditions of the region... or new creations, such as the manufacture of decorative objects and furniture from old boat carcasses found on the beaches, in the workshop of Miguel Teiga. And then there are the markets, like the Feira das Brunheiras in Vila Nova de Milfontes, where all the producers of the region meet. So many activities that allow you to complete your exploration of the Vicentine coast... or even extend the time of the trip.

The practical vicentine coast

PREPARING YOUR TRIP

Consult the Rota Vicentina website (in French) to find out about the cycling routes and all the hiking trails. For personalized tours (in English) focusing on the fauna and flora of the Vicentine coast, the exploration of villages or local crafts, contact Finn, a native of Vila Nova de Milfontes and a great connoisseur of all the secrets of the region (finnsroutes.com).

WHEN TO GO

With an average of 300 days of sunshine, the region lends itself to year-round exploration. However, hiking is not recommended in July and August. We recommend that you prefer spring and autumn in the heart of summer, for the mild climate and the colors of the panorama.

HOW TO GET THERE

By plane, take one of the many daily flights to Lisbon or Faro. Then, rent a car.

By car from Lisbon, take the A2/A12 towards “Sul / Algarve”. On the A2, take the IP8 towards Sines, then Odemira and Porto Covo.

From Faro, take the A22 or take the national road 125 until reaching Lagos/Bensafrim, from where you continue on the national road towards Aljezur, Carrapateira or Vila do Bispo. Once there, to organize transfers, in particular within the framework of the excursions, many services of taxis and transfers indexed on the site of association Rota Vicentina.

OR SLEEP

Tres Marias

Between Porto Covo and Vila Nova de Milfontes, ten rooms with clear lines, the fields in the foreground, the beach a little further. We fell in love with number 15, opening onto two terraces, and the cabin in the woods in which to take a little height! Excellent value. Double room from €100.

Tres Marias, 7645-909 Vila Nova de Milfontes, Portugal. Such. : +351 965 666 231.

Craveiral Farmhouse

A beautiful eco-responsible address that celebrates Portugal in general and the region in particular. Particularly designed for families, this rural hotel combines elegance, comfort and delicious wood-fired cuisine prepared under the watchful eye of starred chef Alexandre Silva. Good selection of excursions to discover the region from the hotel. Double room from €160.

Craveiral Farmhouse, Estrada Municipal 501, Km.4, 7630-658, Teotónio Odemira, Portugal. Such. : +351 283 249 170.